Fix LG T1700 Dryer Not Heating Quick Guide
Quick Overview
If your LG T1700 dryer has stopped heating, you are probably seeing a blank or flashing cycle indicator while the drum continues to spin. This guide walks you through the most common causes and gives you a clear, step‑by‑step path to get the unit back up and running. Follow the safety warnings, gather the right tools, and read each step carefully. By the end you should either have the dryer back in operation or know exactly what to tell a professional.
Safety First
- Unplug the dryer.
Disconnect it from the wall outlet or circuit breaker before you start any inspection. - Check the voltage.
Use a multimeter to confirm you are getting 120 V (or 240 V for gas models) at the outlet. - Ventilation.
Work in a well‑ventilated area to avoid inhaling any hot or dusty debris. - Avoid moisture.
Do not expose any electrical components to water. - Use insulated gloves.
If you are uncertain about any step, stop and contact a qualified technician.
What You’ll Need
- Flat‑head screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Multimeter (digital preferred)
- Wire stripper / cutter
- Heat‑resistant gloves
- A small flashlight
- Replacement heating element (if needed)
- Replacement thermostat or temperature sensor
- New vent hose or duct if necessary
Common Culprits for No Heat
- Faulty thermostat or temperature sensor
These two components tell the dryer whether it’s hot enough to stop or continue heating. - Burnt heating element
The element is the actual source of heat; if it’s damaged it will not produce warmth. - Control board failure
Modern dryers rely on a control board to orchestrate everything; a short can disable heating. - Electrical issues
Loose wiring, a bad outlet, or a tripped breaker can cut power to the heating circuit. - Ventilation problems
A blocked vent can cause the dryer to shut down automatically for safety. - Door seal failure
If the dryer thinks the door is open, it will not heat.
Step 1 – Verify the Cycle and Settings
- Look at the display panel.
If the cycle is blank or shows “L” or “E”, the dryer is likely in a fault state. - Start the dryer on a normal “Cotton” or “Normal” cycle.
Let it run for 5 minutes and observe whether the drum turns and the cycle indicator shows progress.
If the drum does not turn, the issue is probably outside the heating system (motor or clutch).
Step 2 – Inspect Lint Filter, Door Seal, and Vent
- Lint filter – remove and clean thoroughly.
- Door seal – feel for cracks or gaps.
If the seal is damaged, replace it immediately. - Vent hose – detach from the back of the dryer, check for kinks or blockage, and clean.
- External vent – open the exterior vent and clear any debris.
A blocked vent can trigger a safety shutdown that prevents heating.
Step 3 – Check the Thermostat and Temperature Sensor
The LG T1700 uses two critical sensors: the high‑temperature thermostat (usually a small round component on the rear panel) and the temperature sensor near the heating element.
Locating the Components
- Remove the rear panel of the dryer using a screwdriver.
- The thermostat is typically a black, round device on the back wall of the drum.
- The temperature sensor is a thin, flat strip near the heating element.
Testing with a Multimeter
- Set the multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting.
- Disconnect the wires from each component.
- Place the probes on the terminals.
- A functioning thermostat will show a resistance that changes when you tap it gently (should drop).
- A sensor will show a high resistance (~400 kΩ) at room temperature and lower (~200 kΩ) when heated.
If either component shows no change or is open (∞ Ω) or shorted (0 Ω), replace it.
Step 4 – Examine the Heating Element
The heating element is a coiled resistor located at the back of the dryer, often within a plastic cover.
- Visually inspect the coil for breaks or discoloration.
- Test it with the multimeter set to the ohms setting.
The reading should be between 3 Ω and 10 Ω (check your model’s spec sheet). - If the reading is infinite or zero, the element is bad and needs replacement.
Replacing the element
- Disconnect the power and remove the cover.
- Unscrew the element using the provided screws or a screwdriver.
- Note the wire connections; you may need to label them.
- Install the new element and reconnect the wires exactly as they were.
- Reassemble the cover and panel.
Step 5 – Inspect the Control Board
The control board may show a burnt smell or visible damage. Look for:
- Burnt or melted components
- Loose or missing solder joints
- Physical cracks
If you suspect board failure:
- Reset the dryer: unplug, wait 30 seconds, then plug back in.
- If the board still does not function, consider replacing it.
- Replacements are often sold online or at appliance parts stores.
Step 6 – Verify Electrical Supply
- Check the outlet: use a voltage tester.
- Inspect the plug and cord for visible damage.
- Confirm the circuit breaker is on and has not tripped.
- Test continuity of the power cord between the plug and the dryer’s internal wiring using the multimeter.
If the outlet is fine and the cord shows continuity, the problem lies elsewhere.
Step 7 – Gas Dryer Specific Check (If Applicable)
For gas models, the heating element is a gas valve controlled by a thermal switch.
- Verify the gas valve opens when the dryer is powered.
- Check the thermal switch for continuity.
- If the valve is stuck or the switch fails, replace the valve.
Note: Working with gas components is hazardous. If you are not experienced, stop and call a professional.
Step 8 – Clean the Entire Vent Path
Even if the vent appears clear at the opening, there can be buildup inside the dryer’s internal duct.
- Remove the vent hose from the dryer.
- Inspect the hose for kinks or obstructions; straighten or replace if necessary.
- Use a vent cleaning brush or a vacuum to clear dust from inside the dryer’s vent line.
- Reattach the hose securely to the dryer and the exterior vent.
Step 9 – Perform a Final Reset
- Unplug the dryer.
- Wait 30 seconds to 1 minute.
- Plug it back in.
- Press the “Start” button and watch the cycle indicator.
- If the dryer shows a normal cycle and the drum turns, the heating system should be active.
Step 10 – When All Else Fails
- Call LG customer support: they can guide you through advanced diagnostics.
- Contact a licensed appliance technician: bring them the model number, serial number, and a description of what you have already tried.
- Consider replacement: if the cost to repair approaches the price of a new dryer, it may be more economical to replace.
Quick Reference Table
| Component | Typical Test | Pass Condition | What to Replace |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thermostat | Resistance change on tap | Drop in resistance | Thermostat |
| Temp Sensor | ~400 kΩ at room temp, lower when hot | Correct range | Temperature sensor |
| Heating Element | 3 Ω‑10 Ω | Between 3 Ω and 10 Ω | Heating element |
| Control Board | Visual inspection | No damage | Control board |
| Power Cord | Continuity | Good continuity | Power cord |
| Vent | Manual cleaning | No blockage | Vent hose / duct |
Final Tips
- Keep a tidy workspace; loose screws can become hazards.
- When replacing components, label wires to avoid confusion.
- Store all screws and small parts in a container to prevent loss.
- If the dryer still doesn’t heat after all checks, there may be an issue with the motor or clutch that prevents the drum from engaging the heating cycle.
Common Questions
Does the dryer need a new thermostat if it’s not heating?
Not necessarily. First confirm the thermostat is functioning correctly. Only replace if the test shows it’s defective.
How long does a replacement heating element last?
With proper maintenance it can last 10 years or more. Ensure the vent is clean to avoid overheating.
Can I use a generic part?
For critical components like the heating element or control board, it’s safest to use an OEM or a high‑quality part that matches the model specifications.
Summary
The LG T1700 dryer not heating is usually caused by a single component failure: a bad thermostat, a defective heating element, a malfunctioning control board, or a blocked vent. By systematically checking each part—starting with the simplest inspections (lint filter, vent, door seal) and moving to electrical tests (thermostat, sensor, element, board)—you can often resolve the issue yourself with a few tools and a little patience. If you’re ever uncertain about working with electrical or gas components, stop and call a professional. Happy repairing!
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