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Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a KitchenAid KADW6000 Dishwasher

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#Kitchen Appliance #dishwasher repair #Appliance Troubleshooting #Home Maintenance #KitchenAid
Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a KitchenAid KADW6000 Dishwasher

Understanding the Heating Element Problem

The KitchenAid KADW6000 is a popular model among homeowners who value durability and reliable performance. One component that often trips up even the most seasoned users is the heating element. This thin copper wire is responsible for turning hot water into steam that kills germs and lifts stubborn food stains. When it stops functioning, dishes can arrive wet, dirty, or covered in unsightly water spots. Knowing how to diagnose, test, and replace a faulty heating element can save you from costly repairs and keep your kitchen running smoothly.

Why a Working Heating Element Matters

The heating element is located at the bottom of the dishwasher’s tub. Its primary job is to raise the temperature of the water to at least 150 °F (65 °C). If the element fails, the machine may:

  • Run longer cycles to compensate for lower temperatures, wasting energy and water.
  • Leave dishes dry because the water does not heat enough to evaporate.
  • Create a foul odor due to undried food residue.
  • Damage the tub over time, as the machine continues to cycle with low heat.

Because of these consequences, a faulty heating element should be addressed promptly.

How to Identify a Faulty Heating Element

A broken or burned-out element will usually manifest in a few common ways. Look for:

  • Damp or wet dishes after a complete cycle.
  • No heat or very low temperature during the wash (you can usually feel the water at the bottom of the tub; it should be hot, not lukewarm).
  • A visible crack, burn mark, or discoloration on the element itself.
  • The dishwasher making unusual noises (a low humming sound that does not cease when the cycle ends).
  • The display panel showing an error code such as “E2” or “E3,” which in many models refers to heating issues.

If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s time to investigate further.

Safety First

Before you start working on any appliance, you must take precautions.

  1. Turn off the power at the circuit breaker. The dishwasher’s control panel is powered by a 240‑volt supply; never touch the wiring while it is live.
  2. Unplug or disconnect the water supply line if you suspect leaks or if you will be removing the door.
  3. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from debris.
  4. Use insulated gloves if you are handling electrical components.

Following these steps ensures that you won’t be injured during the repair.

Gather the Right Tools

Replacing a heating element does not require a toolbox full of exotic equipment. The items you’ll need include:

  • A flathead screwdriver
  • A Phillips‑head screwdriver
  • A socket wrench set (usually 10 mm)
  • A multimeter (with AC voltage capability)
  • A replacement heating element rated for the KADW6000
  • A new washer or O‑ring (often provided with the replacement part)

Having these tools on hand makes the process smoother and reduces the risk of damaging the dishwasher.

Accessing the Heating Element

The first step in replacing a heating element is to get to it. In the KADW6000 the element is tucked beneath the lower spray arm and inside the tub.

  1. Remove the lower rack. Slide the front of the rack out and lift it up.
  2. Unscrew the lower spray arm. The arm is usually held in place by a single screw near the front of the dishwasher.
  3. Lift the spray arm carefully, taking note of the position of any cables or hoses connected to it.
  4. Unplug the element’s electrical connector. The connector is a small plastic plug; gently pull it straight out.
  5. Unscrew the element itself. Most heating elements are secured with one or two bolts. Use the socket wrench to remove them.

Once the element is free, you can inspect it for obvious damage.

Inspecting the Heating Element

A visual inspection can reveal several telltale signs of failure:

  • Cracks or breaks in the copper wire.
  • Burned or melted insulation.
  • Discoloration that looks like a scorch mark.
  • Corrosion around the soldered ends.

If any of these are present, the element is likely dead and needs replacement.

Testing the Heating Element with a Multimeter

Even if the element looks fine, it may still be faulty. Use a multimeter to check its continuity.

  1. Set the multimeter to the continuity setting (usually a symbol that looks like a sound wave).
  2. Touch the probes to each end of the element’s wiring.
  3. Check for a beep or a reading close to zero ohms.
    • A reading of zero (or very close to zero) indicates the element is intact.
    • A reading of infinite or “OL” (over‑limit) means the element is broken and must be replaced.

If the test confirms a fault, move on to the replacement process.

Common Causes of Heating Element Failure

Understanding why the element fails can help prevent future issues.

  • Electrical overload: The element is rated for a certain amperage. Exceeding this can cause it to burn out.
  • Water damage: Over time, condensation or a leaky supply line can corrode the wiring.
  • Mechanical stress: Vibrations from the motor or improper installation of the dishwasher can strain the element.
  • Manufacturing defects: Occasionally, a batch of elements may have subpar soldering or material quality.

While these factors can’t always be avoided, proper maintenance can reduce their impact.

Replacing the Heating Element

With a new element in hand, the replacement process is straightforward.

  1. Connect the new element’s electrical plug to the same spot where the old one was attached.
  2. Secure the element with its mounting bolts. Tighten them evenly to avoid misalignment.
  3. Reattach the lower spray arm. Plug the cable back in and screw the arm back into place.
  4. Slide the lower rack back in. Ensure it is positioned correctly to avoid interference with the spray arm.

Make sure the new element’s size matches the old one. If it’s a different length or has a different connector shape, you may need a different model.

Resetting the Dishwasher

After installing the new heating element, it’s good practice to reset the dishwasher’s control board.

  1. Turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
  2. Press the “Cancel” or “Reset” button (refer to your user manual for exact instructions).
  3. Select a normal wash cycle and let the dishwasher run.
  4. Observe the water temperature. If the display shows the correct temperature and the dishes dry properly, the replacement was successful.

If the dishwasher still shows an error code, double‑check that all connections are secure and that the element is installed correctly.

Checking for Related Issues

Even after a successful replacement, some additional checks help ensure long‑term reliability.

  • Inspect the water inlet valve for proper operation.
  • Verify that the thermostat is functioning. A faulty thermostat can mislead the heating element.
  • Look for any leaks around the tub or door gasket.
  • Test the water pressure; low pressure can hinder heating performance.

If any of these components show signs of wear, consider addressing them to avoid recurring problems.

Maintenance Tips to Extend Your Dishwasher’s Life

Regular care can prevent many common faults, including heating element failure.

  • Clean the spray arms monthly, removing food debris that can clog holes.
  • Run a cleaning cycle with a dishwasher cleaner or a cup of vinegar on the top rack.
  • Check the door gasket for cracks or gaps; replace if necessary.
  • Inspect the detergent dispenser and ensure it is dispensing properly.
  • Keep the water inlet filter free of sediment by cleaning it once every few months.

By incorporating these habits, you’ll reduce the likelihood of future heating element problems.

When to Call a Professional

While replacing a heating element is a manageable DIY task, there are situations where professional help is wise.

  • You are uncomfortable working with high voltage and prefer to avoid risks.
  • The dishwasher’s wiring or electrical panel shows signs of damage that require specialized tools.
  • Other components (like the motor or control board) might also be faulty, and diagnosing them can be complex.
  • Your warranty is still valid, and you want to ensure that a repair is covered without voiding it.

Hiring a licensed appliance technician guarantees that the work is done safely and that the appliance is restored to optimal performance.

Final Thoughts

A malfunctioning heating element in the KitchenAid KADW6000 can disrupt your household’s dishwashing routine, but it is not an irreparable problem. By understanding the signs, taking safety precautions, and following a clear, step‑by‑step approach, you can replace the element and restore efficient operation. Regular maintenance, careful handling, and timely intervention will keep your dishwasher running clean, hot, and reliable for years to come.

Discussion (7)

AU
Aurelia 6 months ago
Yo check the fuse or somethin if the hot side ain’t doin' its job. Also make sure the wiring isn’t bent or frayed. A lot of times the element’s fine but the wire to it is dead.
BR
Brennan 6 months ago
Good point, Aurelia. I checked the wiring after the first attempt, found a little scorch mark on the end that was actually the culprit. The article missed that detail.
NA
Nadia 6 months ago
I had a similar problem, but the heating element was fine. Turns out the thermal fuse blew and the control board was fried. So you can’t always assume the element is the issue. Test the entire circuit if it’s still not working.
CI
Ciriaco 6 months ago
Thanks, Nadia, for that reminder. I’m pretty sure the thermal fuse in my KADW6000 was the real killer this time. The article was super helpful but it didn’t mention the fuse at all. Also, I ran the unit on 120V during a summer outage and it still worked—just slower.
BR
Brennan 6 months ago
To be on the safe side: first unplug the unit. Get a good 2000‑amp lockout box to avoid any electrical mishaps. Test the element with a multimeter set to continuity or ohms—should read zero or near zero. If it’s open, it’s dead. Then, if you’re replacing it, cut the new element to the exact length of the old one, solder the leads, and use a heat‑shrink tube over the connection. Finish with a proper mounting bracket and re‑connect the power. I wish the article had mentioned the bracket.
GI
Giosuè 6 months ago
Actually, when I tested the element again after the first fix, it showed 0 ohms but the dishwasher still didn’t heat. That’s when I realized the problem was the control board's heating relay. I replaced that as well and everything’s smooth now.
VI
Viktor 6 months ago
I think you misread the wiring diagram, Giosuè. The hot wire goes to the terminal marked 'H', not the one labeled 'A'. Also make sure you’re using the correct gauge wire; the 24‑inch model uses 18 AWG for the heating element, not 16 AWG as the article implies.
MI
Mikhail 6 months ago
You sure you didn’t just replace the whole unit? I’ve seen a lot of people say they replaced the heating element but the next day the dishwasher still won’t heat. Maybe you just swapped the part for another one that’s compatible with a different model.
BR
Brennan 6 months ago
Mikhail, no, I didn’t replace the whole thing. I followed the diagram from the service manual exactly, and I made sure the element was rated for 240V, not the 120V one that ships with the 24‑inch models. That was the mistake I made the first time.
GI
Giosuè 6 months ago
Just did the replacement last week. Followed the article’s test procedure—used the multimeter on the terminals, it read 0 ohms so that was fine. Then I removed the old element, cut a fresh one, soldered the leads, and the dishwasher finally dries everything. It’s not as hard as it sounds.
GI
Giosuè 6 months ago
Yeah I know, I still feel like I’m poking around in a lab. The article said to use the test socket, but honestly I just hooked it up to the multimeter and it was fine. Maybe I over‑wired the hot side to the wrong terminal—guess I’ll double check next time.

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Contents

Giosuè Just did the replacement last week. Followed the article’s test procedure—used the multimeter on the terminals, it read... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 17, 2025 |
Mikhail You sure you didn’t just replace the whole unit? I’ve seen a lot of people say they replaced the heating element but the... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 16, 2025 |
Viktor I think you misread the wiring diagram, Giosuè. The hot wire goes to the terminal marked 'H', not the one labeled 'A'. A... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 12, 2025 |
Giosuè Actually, when I tested the element again after the first fix, it showed 0 ohms but the dishwasher still didn’t heat. Th... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 10, 2025 |
Brennan To be on the safe side: first unplug the unit. Get a good 2000‑amp lockout box to avoid any electrical mishaps. Test the... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 06, 2025 |
Nadia I had a similar problem, but the heating element was fine. Turns out the thermal fuse blew and the control board was fri... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 01, 2025 |
Aurelia Yo check the fuse or somethin if the hot side ain’t doin' its job. Also make sure the wiring isn’t bent or frayed. A lot... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Mar 27, 2025 |
Giosuè Just did the replacement last week. Followed the article’s test procedure—used the multimeter on the terminals, it read... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 17, 2025 |
Mikhail You sure you didn’t just replace the whole unit? I’ve seen a lot of people say they replaced the heating element but the... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 16, 2025 |
Viktor I think you misread the wiring diagram, Giosuè. The hot wire goes to the terminal marked 'H', not the one labeled 'A'. A... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 12, 2025 |
Giosuè Actually, when I tested the element again after the first fix, it showed 0 ohms but the dishwasher still didn’t heat. Th... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 10, 2025 |
Brennan To be on the safe side: first unplug the unit. Get a good 2000‑amp lockout box to avoid any electrical mishaps. Test the... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 06, 2025 |
Nadia I had a similar problem, but the heating element was fine. Turns out the thermal fuse blew and the control board was fri... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Apr 01, 2025 |
Aurelia Yo check the fuse or somethin if the hot side ain’t doin' its job. Also make sure the wiring isn’t bent or frayed. A lot... on Resolving a Heating Element Fault in a K... Mar 27, 2025 |